Road Trip to Georgia’s Jekyll Island Resort

At Jekyll Island’s majestic resort, visitors sense the history of its Gilded Age founders around every corner.

The Jekyll Island Clubhouse, with its signature Victorian turret, has a storied history. COURTESY JEKYLL ISLAND CLUB RESORT.

One feels somewhat anachronistic pulling into this particular Georgia driveway in a 2016 Honda Odyssey. The 133-year-old Jekyll Island Club Resort, with its signature Victorian turret, stands in majesty among southern live oaks entwined in Spanish moss. It was once lodging for the Jekyll Island Club, a hunting and recreational group whose members at one point controlled one-sixth of the world’s wealth. Its ledger carried names like Rockefeller, Vanderbilt and Pulitzer. This is where club member J.P. Morgan arranged a secret meeting to formulate the Federal Reserve—a private session in 1910 that participants wouldn’t acknowledge for another two decades. As I climb the hotel’s grand, creaking staircase with my family’s duffel bags, I wonder what the club’s billionaire founders would think of the modest inhabitants of room 406.

Class, though, is in the eye of the stakeholder. Morgan, the banker and co-founder of U.S. Steel and General Electric, died in 1913 with a net worth of $80 million, or $1.2 billion today. Fellow island visitor John D. Rockefeller remarked, “And to think, he wasn’t even a rich man.” Rockefeller wasn’t being sarcastic; these people really talked like that. The Jekyll Island Club’s 60-year history is full of these tidbits, backroom deals and bitter rivalries among yesterday’s titans of industry. If you’re entranced by such details, it can become a micro-obsession during your stay. During daytime activities, you’ll find yourself making notes on which Wikipedia rabbit holes you’ll burrow into at night.

The grounds of Crane Cottage feature elegant fountains and a lush courtyard. COURTESY JEKYLL ISLAND CLUB RESORT.

Georgia purchased Jekyll Island for use as a state park in 1947, after the Great Depression and World War II ravaged club membership. Since then, animal inhabitants—from white-tailed deer to marsh hares—have led safer and longer lives.

The resort’s centralized lobby bar is our first stop. Though it looks period-specific, it’s actually left over from the 2000 film The Legend of Bagger Vance. The golf movie, set in the 1930s, used parts of the property as its backdrop, and the film’s production team created this bar for a few scenes. The resort owners liked the design so much, they kept it. When I mention the convenience of having the bar close to the elevator, the mixologist drops a factoid: In the early days of the club, wealthy visitors would bring strapping lads from the north to run the site’s hand-operated elevator. The young men would get free lodging in exchange for pulling Vanderbilts and Morgans to and from their rooms throughout the day.

On the morning after our arrival, my family embarks on a guided nature walk. Even here, we sense the presence of the now-defunct Jekyll Island Club. Ray Emerson, lead park ranger for the Jekyll Island Authority (JIA), describes how the club changed the ecology of the Golden Isles’ southernmost island: When the sportsmen ran out of pheasants or deer, they simply imported more. They also stocked and restocked non-indigenous game, which further upset the balance of these wilds.

The Wharf is the island’s only restaurant over the water. COURTESY JEKYLL ISLAND CLUB RESORT.

Georgia purchased Jekyll Island for use as a state park in 1947, after the Great Depression and World War II ravaged club membership. Since then, animal inhabitants—from white-tailed deer to marsh hares—have led safer and longer lives.

During our walk, a passerby tells Emerson that a tourist is “provoking a gator” a few yards down the path.

“Okay,” he replies. “Would hate for him to become lunch.”

It turns out that the ranger knows the 6-foot American alligator and her mate, who frequents one of the island’s four golf courses (three of those are championship, 18-hole courses). The JIA tracks several Alligator mississippiensis specimens. JIA literature assures us that visitors who respect the island’s wildlife and remain a “generous distance” from gators will be safe. When we eventually pass the gator, she’s soaking up rays in the water just steps from the path. It appears the provoker has moved on.

Rent bikes at Jekyll Wheels to explore the grounds. COURTESY JEKYLL ISLAND CLUB RESORT.

For the rest of our stay, we find that it checks the boxes of a coastal vacation, as we peruse the 10 miles of gorgeous shoreline and a trove of trinket shops. Its most Instagrammable area (and that’s saying something) is Driftwood Beach, where seawater has killed the trees of a former maritime forest as, over centuries, the island’s northern end has eroded. The Atlantic has left an otherworldly landscape of dead trunks and gnarled clusters of branches.

The quality and range of the dining measures up to the scenery: The resort’s AAA Four Diamond restaurant, Grand Dining Room, serves elegant seafood and Southern dishes, while off-property spots have casual options for visitors on the go. If you are interested enough, each ticked box unlocks new insight on the island’s former owners. Documentaries and biopics are one thing. When is the last time you had the opportunity to inhabit history?


Andy Smith is executive editor of Charlotte magazine.


The Grand Dining Room with its cozy fireplace. COURTESY JEKYLL ISLAND CLUB RESORT.

MORE TO SEE & DO

STAY

Several original structures—some of which you can stay in—surround Jekyll Island Club Resort. The Italian Renaissance-style Crane Cottage has a sunken garden often used for weddings. Though you can’t stay there, the Hollybourne Cottage is worth touring: Founding club member Charles Stewart Maurice, one of the great American bridge designers, built the house like a bridge.

EAT

The resort’s Grand Dining Room and pier restaurant The Wharf are both upscale options. But if you want to explore, try Red Bug Motors Pizza, which serves a specialty pie popular with locals: the Red Bug Special. Another casual spot is Tortuga Jack’s Restaurant, a Baja-Mexican joint with live music and sizable burritos. Some visitors can’t resist a margarita inside a hand-hollowed souvenir coconut with a painted pirate face.

DO

Jekyll Island’s Georgia Sea Turtle Center is just 300 yards from the resort. The center protects, rehabilitates and educates the public on these vulnerable reptiles found along the Atlantic coast. Club members constructed the Faith Chapel in 1904, and it contains one of only a few stained-glass windows in the world constructed and signed by Louis Comfort Tiffany.

Categories: Travel