From the Editor: Mulling It Over

Biscuits and gravy to the rescue and other ruminations on breakfast.

Barry Glenn

It’s ironic, perhaps, that I should start off this issue full of great breakfasts by recalling the worst I ever had. It happened when I was 11 years old and lived in north Georgia. My dad was fond of a dish called chicken mull, which basically consisted of ground chicken, broth, milk and smushed-up Saltine crackers. Once it came off the stove, he kept this ungodly stew stored in used milk cartons in the fridge. Unlabeled.

And so it was that one morning, this sleepy-eyed fifth-grader poured what he thought was cold milk over his Cheerios and started eating. An hour later, after much gargling and teeth brushing, I was, amazingly, still able to make it to school. But I never forgot that day. I can still remember the color of our old fridge (brown), the brand (Sears), the door shelf the mull was on (middle), and the dairy name on the carton (Pet).

Mostly, though, my childhood was full of great breakfasts, mainly on Saturday mornings. That’s when my mom made her magnificent biscuits and cream gravy. Yes, she knew exactly how to get her boys out of bed to do chores. I’ve never been able to duplicate the recipe, but a place in Greenville, South Carolina, called Stax’s, has come awfully close.

As an adult, I’ve never fully converted to the first meal of the day. But after editing the roundup of 20 top-notch breakfast spots assembled by Joseph Hayes, I may be searching my soul. Our dining critic covers the spectrum of early meals, from mom-and-pop offerings to vegan specialties to a patisserie overflowing with pastries. Benedicts, home fries, grits, omelets—it’s all there in 16 glorious pages. Plus four places for must-try brunches.

Of course we wouldn’t be telling you how to break the fast if we didn’t tell you best way to…fast. Check out what experts say about intermittent fasting to enhance physical and mental health. Elsewhere, dive into our semiannual wedding section, featuring fashion, tips for writing your own vows, how to find comfy shoes for the big day, and more. And if you’ve ever wondered what being a wedding officiant is like, you’ll hear from a gentleman who has performed ten thousand ceremonies.

Also in this issue is our yearly guide to private schools, with information about dozens of local educational institutions covering details like tuition and curriculum. And finally in her Extra Pulp column, Laura Anders Lee tells us about how, after years of swearing off dogs, she suddenly became a pooch person, thanks to a Goldendoodle puppy named Lillian.


Categories: Column