| If
Ceviche were closer to home, I’d stop in regularly
for doses of Spanish-influenced tapas that range from good
to outstanding. But I’d hope that on my subsequent
visits the wait staff would not be in such a hurry. My
first dining experience there was a rush job.
One of four Ceviche restaurants from here to Sarasota,
the local restaurant occupies a space that’s downright luscious. Part of the painfully progressing
Church Street Station, Ceviche Tapas Bar & Restaurant retains many of the
striking design elements left by the defunct Pearl Steakhouse and other residents
before it. A grand back bar on an elevated space is aces for people watching
in the restaurant and through the glass windows to the public plaza beyond.
Paneled dark-wood ceilings add a rich touch where few restaurateurs spend their
investment dollars. Elaborately carved wood enhances little areas around the
dining room. Chandelier globes look like upside-down hot air balloons.
Then to counteract all that American-style lushness are ample Mediterranean
touches brought in specifically for Ceviche. Columns throughout the space are
covered in white, blue and yellow tiles typical to Andalusia in the south of
Spain. Tabletops are Latin mosaics in vivid colors. Some chairs are a Spanish-style
dark carved wood, others a more contemporary Spanish leather.
Almost the entire menu—and it’s a big one—is filled with
tapas, which are appetizer-size portions. A few paellas round out the options,
and some meat and fish dishes are also available as entrÈes. All the
tapas are meant to be shared. While many are true to the cuisine of Spain,
others hail from the Middle East (hummus, baba ganoush), Latin America (huevos
rellenos, which are deviled eggs drizzled with olive oil) and the corporate
chefs’ imaginations (sautÈed scallops over greens with candied
walnuts, Cabralles cheese and warm bacon vinaigrette).
Out of respect for the restaurant’s name, and given an unapologetic amor
for ceviche—fish and/or shellfish “cooked” by the acids in
citrus juice—I ordered two of the six varieties offered. One was delicious,
one OK, but the recipes seem to have gotten mixed up so I’m not sure
which was which. Ceviche de atun was an outstanding toss of fresh tuna flavored
with lime, onion slivers and crunchy bits of red bell pepper.
The entire review can be found in the current issue of
Orlando Magazine.
Culture Clash
Zia’s Grill & Pizza offers a mix of Mexican
and Italian dishes,
with mixed results.
Zia’s is a jumble of contrasts. The full name implies
that the restaurant serves grilled foods and pizza. It
does, but Italian and Mexican dishes dominate the menu.
The polarization goes further: Some items are fabulous,
others awful.
Zia’s is a family-owned operation in a new strip
mall in burgeoning Winter Garden. According to our waiter, “The
mama: Mexican. The papa: Italian.” The website melds
the contrasts convincingly. The place, whose name means
aunt, aims to “become stewards in the daily and celebratory
moments in the lives of our community.”
 Zia’s succeeds as a family gathering place. Its simple dÈcor,
with booths and tables of no huge expense, is nice enough for relaxing but
casual enough so you might not panic should your kid stand on a chair and start
throwing spaghetti.
The house wines—the only kind offered—are pedestrian, so opt for
a Bud instead, or maybe an Italian soda. You’ll be so enchanted with
the soups you’ll forgive the lapse in spirits. Zia’s offers three
soups, all made on the premises; they’re $3.99 apiece, or free with an
entrÈe, unless you opt for salad with your dinner instead. Portions
are generous. The cream of cilantro soup is a rich cream soup with just the
right amount of cilantro flavoring. It’s like the essence of a Mexican
dish made with the aromatic herb. For a taste of Italy there’s the tomato
and pancetta soup. Tomato chunks, bits of Italian bacon and hunks of bread
create a hearty and delicious dish. Lentil soup is also available.
The entire review can be found in the current issue of
Orlando Magazine.
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